Bordeaux - Chateâus et Terriors
Wednesday 25 July 2007
Yang met up with Allison and Aaron to watch a performance of the controversial yet lyrical Barber violin concerto as part of the BBC Proms. Unfortunately Allison's friend was unable to make the concert and efforts to give away her ticket on the day were not met with great success, which was a bit of a waste. A highlight of the evening (apart from the remarkable performance of the Barber concerto) was the Copland Symphony number 3. The main theme of the fourth movement is the Fanfare for the Common Man, also known by Aaron as "the cricket song" that they play on the Wide World of Sports on Channel 9 in Australia. Aaron was most impressed by the grand finale which involved a musician banging on an anvil with a hammer in each hand.
Thursday 26 July 2007
This evening, we met up with Tammy, Linus, Nicole and Jane at the ICAA Summer Drinks. We needed to get our annual subscription worth of drinks and canapes, as $536 for 12 magazines a year is quite ridiculous! The Summer Drinks was held at The Little Ship Club, on the bank of the Thames beside London Bridge. We also got to see some old faces from PwC Perth, and Sean's friends Ryan and Aaron from KPMG Perth, and some ex Shell work colleagues. Yang and I left soon after the bar tab finished, as we had an early start the next day.
Friday 27 July 2007
A huge thank you to EVERYONE who called, SMSed and emailed me birthday wishes this week, it was greatly appreciated and thanks for remembering (given I am so bad at remembering birthdays!).
So another early start this morning, as for Jason and Ammy who met us at Gatwick for our flight to Bordeaux for my Birthday weekend! I'm quite sure that I'm not alcoholic, however, it does seem quite coincidental that 2 years in a row I have visited vineyard regions, Champagne last year and Bordeaux (the largest wine growing region in the world) this year. I'll put it down to the beautiful Chateâus in both regions!
Visiting vineyards in Bordeaux is very different from driving around Margaret River, for example:
1. You have to book an appointment at least one month in advance (and this is often too late to get into the Premier Crus);
2. You often have to make the visit request in writing, which is made more difficult as the Chateâus don't have addresses (which is also annoying for navigating by GPS...or even by map!);
3. You don't just go for a tasting, you tour their estate from where the grapes are sorted, pressed, fermented, and aged in oak barrels. It is only after you do this tour (usually about 45 minutes) that you actually get to taste the wine;
4. The vineyards don't like groups, so tours are personal and for only a handful of people so all the tours we had were just for the 4 of us;
5. Wines are ranked by the Classification of 1855 according to a Château's reputation and trading price, and more recently the 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification (for new vineyards that were not included in the Classification of 1855); and
6. The Bordeaux wine region is spread over several areas, the main ones being Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, Médoc, and Graves. Then in each of these regions are comprised of small villages with their approved appellations.
Today we visited the Médoc region which is famous for its complex red wines. Our first appointment was Château Lascombes, a Deuxièmes Cru, in the Margaux appellation. We visited their 18th Century Château, complete with steeples and vines; the Fermenting room; and the Cellars. The tour ended with a tasting of their first wine, Château Lascombes 2004 (named after the Château as for most Grand Crus), which they were selling for €57).
After this, we made our way through the Pauillac appellation and stopped at the fairytale looking Château Pichon Longueville, a Deuxièmes Cru. This Château was modelled on Château Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire Valley. Unfortunately our appreciation and view of this beautiful Château was impaired by renovation works being carried out on the Château.Then it was time for lunch so we stopped at La Salamandre on the Quai Léon Perrier, the waterfront area of the village of Pauillac. Ammy and I had a trio of duck...yummy. Jason and Yang had steak but unfortunately for Yang, medium was well done so it wasn't very good. It is very unusual for the French to overcook their food, but this turned out to be a trend in this trip...
We were running slightly behind schedule so we sped out of La Salamandre and headed for our next appointment at Château Lafite-Rothschild, in the Pauillac appellation, which was actually quite hard to find, even though it is one of the largest in the Médoc. Château Lafite-Rothschild is a Premier Cru and producer of one of the world's most expensive red wines, prices range from £250 to £955 per bottle depending on the vintage. The Château is fronted by a lake and manicured gardens, but the actual Château wasn't as pretty as Château Lascombes. However, the Cellar blew us away...it was this huge underground circular temple. They actually hold concerts in there between Cellar times (otherwise the vibrations from the music and crowds would affect the aging process). We had our glass of Château Lafite-Rothschild 1994 in the Cellar and then headed outside to admire their vineyards.
We drove next door to Château Mouton Rothschild, also a Premier Cru and also part of the Pauillac appellation. The Château is one of many former homes of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild and his American born wife, Pauline. It is the most visited Château in southwestern France, but we didn't really see the attraction, so we just drove around and headed to Château Cos d'Estournel, a Deuxièmes Cru in the Saint-Estèphe appellation. This Château was beautiful, unfortunately it was closed for renovation so we were unable to walk the grounds.By this time, we were due at our next appointment at Château Haut-Marbuzet, a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, also in the Saint-Estèphe appellation. There was a stark difference in the size and quality of equipment in the Fermenting Room and Cellars of Château Haut-Marbuzet compared to Château Lafite-Rothschild and Château Lascombes...I guess because their bottles are a more reasonable priced at around €8 to €30. However, it was good to see a mix of vineyards and because our host knew the owner, Henri Duboscq, personally, she took a lot of pride in showing us around. We tasted one vintage of their first wine and two vintages of their second wine (Château Chambert Marbuzet and Château Tour de Marbuzet), which was another major difference as the previous 2 Châteaus only gave us a taste of one vintage. Then we were on the road again.
Our final appointment for the day was at Château Peyrabon, a Cru Bourgeois, in the village of Saint-Sauveur. This Château has recently been winning a string of awards for their 2001 to 2004 vintages for their Château La Fleur Peyrabon (our host graciously told us that vineyards for this label border on the vineyards of Château Lafite-Rothschild, and their blender is also from Château Lafite-Rothschild so the wine should be the same!), and their Château Peyrabon label. Given the numerous awards, the Château was in the process of expansion, and this was highlighted to us during the tour with the amount of new equipment on the property. Finally, we got to the tastings, which we thought would not end. Firstly, they poured us the vintages from 2002, 2003, and 2004 of their second wine, Château Pierbone; then the same vintages of their 2 first wines, Château Peyrabon and Château La Fleur Peyrabon. So after 9 glasses of tastings, we were all red wined OUT. Poor Yang, who was driving, had to stop after the Château Peyrabon which was sad given the Château La Fleur Peyrabon was actually a better first wine.
We took the Château route to Bordeaux and made a stop at the "Versailles of the Médoc", Château Margaux, a Premier Cru. The Château is a four-square palace with a columned portico in neo-Palladian style, it is actually a classified historical monument.
When we finally made it to the Bordeaux City Centre, we headed straight to La Tupina for my Birthday dinner. La Tupina is situated right behind La Porte de la monnaie, one of the old city gates. A big wood fire is situated right in the middle of the restaurant and is actually used to cook the food. Despite excellent reviews of this restaurant, we actually found it only so so...Yang's fish was overcooked, as was Jason's meat, and their famous roti-chicken that Ammy and I ate was nothing special...I actually had better chicken in the Oktoberfest Tents in Germany! Yang had arranged with the restaurant to bring me a birthday dessert, which was a nice end to the meal.After dinner, we visited the gothic style Basilique Saint Michel with its impressive Bell Tower, Fleche Saint Michael (which is separate from the Basilique like the Italian Campaniles, and the tallest in Gironde). Then we took an evening drive along the Quai and over Pont de Pierre to see Bordeaux at night. Finally, very weary, we checked into the Hotel de la Presse for a good night's sleep after a very long day, but it was a great birthday and one I definitely won't forget!
Saturday 28 July 2007
After grabbing a quick breakfast at Brioche Dorée we headed to Chateâu de La Brède, where Montesqueieu (a famous Bordeaux figure) was born and lived. The Chateâu is in the Gothic style and surrounded by a man made lake and moats. However, due to bad planning on my part, I didn't check the opening hours (I assumed it was open from 10am) but it is only open from 2pm to 6pm (the French and their funny opening hours) so we didn't get to go in.So we drove on to Barsac in the Sauternes and Barsac region, which is famous for their sweet white wines (i.e. stickies). First we visited Château Piada, a family run Château. We tasted 3 vintages of their label and being reasonably priced, we bought a bottle of their 2003, which had won some wine award.
Our next Château was Clos Haut-Peyraguey, a Premiers Cru. The host here didn't speak any English at all, so we did a tour of the Fermenting room and Cellars in French and just smiled and pretended to understand what he was saying by repeating what we thought he said in English to each other...it was pretty funny actually. We also enjoyed this sticky and given we had taken up the kind gentleman's time, we also bought a bottle from here.
By the time we finished at Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey, it was the 12pm Vineyard "mandatory" close for lunch time, so we just drove around to see the Château d'Yquem and the Château de Malle before heading back to Bordeaux for lunch at a restaurant called Le Cinq.After lunch we joined a walking tour of Bordeaux. Bordeaux is not just famous for its wine, it has also been a major port since pre-Roman times, and on 28 June 2007 it was officially included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites (it is the largest urban entity to be so honoured). Also, in 2004, there was a huge clean-up of the Bordeaux town centre, where the streets were pedestrianised and the city's elegant 18th century buildings restored and buffed clean. The walking tour took us to:
- Esplanade des Quinconces with its lavishly decorated Monument aux Girondins, a fountain in the form of statues symbolizing the Triumph of Concord and of the Republic. It is crowned by a statue of Liberty breaking free of her shackles;
- Place Tourny and its many Café and Majestic houses (where the prosperous bourgeois showed off their wealth), the facades of which survived the French Revolution.- Eglise Notre Dame de Bordeaux
- Grande Theatre with its statues of the nine Muses and the goddesses Juno, Minerva and Venus. It also has a Great Staircase which inspired Garnier’s design for the staircase at the Paris Opera;
- Place de la Bourse, flanked by the Bourse (old Stock Exchange) and the Hotel des Fermes (Musee des Douanes);
- Porte Cailhau city gate which was is part of the original defensive medieval walls (there is a great gelateria behind it too!).The official walking tour finished here, but we continued on our own walking tour of:
- La Grosse Cloche- Cathedrale Saint-André and its belfry tour Pey-Berland (separate form the Church) (pictured)
- Hotel de Ville
- Rue de Catherine (pedestrianised shopping street)
- Basilique Saint Seurin, it has archaeological crypts with 4th to 18th century tombs.
- Palais Gallier, 2nd century, the only vestige of ancient Burdigala, as Bordeaux was known in Gallo-Roman times. It was an amphitheatre that seated 15000 people.
Then straight onto dinner at L'Estacade on the Quai de Queyries with great views of Place de la Bourse and the Pont de Pierre (a beautiful bridge over the Garonne River commissioned by Napoleon). The restaurant was so cool (no wonder it was fully booked and they were turning people away at the door), it was kind of like the Red Herring in Fremantle but with much better views. The food was great this time as well...luckily for Yang who hadn't been having the luckiest time with his food this trip. (Continuing the over cooked food trend, Jason's meat was over cooked.) After dinner we walked along the Quai de Queyries to take photos.Sunday 29 July 2007
We said goodbye to Bordeaux this morning and made our way to Saint-Émilion, another UNESCO World Heritage site. I had high expectations of Saint-Émilion as everyone who has been there had raved about the town. I wasn't disappointed, it was quaint and picturesque, being at the top of a hill surrounded by vineyards and Châteaus.
For breakfast, we grabbed canelés, a Bordeaux speciality, they look like mini fluted cakes and have a soft and tender custard center and a dark, thick caramelized crust flavoured with rum and vanilla; and macaroons, a Saint-Émilion speciality (these aren't like the macaroons you get in Paris...La Duree is so much better!). Both these delicacies were created by the town's nuns in the 15th century.
To get a feel for the vineyards (which were closed on a Sunday for tastings), we hopped on the Le Train des Grands Vignobles and traveled around the many vineyards that surrounded the town. These included the beautiful Château Ausone, Château la Gaffelière and Château Bel-Air.
After the train ride, we joined the Tourist Office's “an Extraordinary grouping of Underground Monuments” tour that included the:
- Monolithic church, dug out of solid limestone, its volume makes it the largest of Europe;
- Catacombs with a mass grave and tombs
- St Emilian’s Hermitage, carved out of a natural grotto
- Chapelle de la trinité (Trinity Chapel) built in honour of Emilian and situated on top of his hermitage.
These monuments are not usually open to the public so we needed to join the tour to see them. Unfortunately photography was not permitted as the monuments were privately owned...in any event, the monolithic church was enormous and I don't think photos would have done it justice.
We also walked around the picturesque hilly paths of the town and saw the:
- Collegiate Church, its organ and the cloister;
- Chateâu du Roy (King’s Tower), the keep of what remains of the King’s Castle. It is used annually for the Jurade in September where the official announcement of the Harvest is made (i.e. vineyards are not able to begin harvesting until this announcement).
We had lunch at Bistrot le Clocher on Place de l’Eglise Monolithe at the foot of the Monolithic Church’s Bell Tower (the second tallest bell tower in Gironde after Saint Michel Church in Bordeaux).
After lunch, my Birthday weekend was sadly coming to an end as we drove to the Bordeaux Airport and caught our flight back to London. But it was a FANTASTIC Birthday weekend. Thanks to Yang, Jason and Ammy for coming out and sharing it with me!


















































