Marseille - Too much seafood
Monday 23 April 2007
The The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2007 were announced today. I had previously set a goal to dine at all of the World's 50 Best Restaurants in London and thankfully for our bank account, there are only two on the list that we haven't yet been to, being the The River Cafe and St John. I booked the River Cafe for June so only one more to tick off the list!
Tuesday 24 April 2007
Still in the marathon spirit, I joined the British 10k London Run on 1 July. I've decided to raise some money as well so if you feel like sponsoring me, please go to my Donations website. Thanks, and special thanks to everyone who has sponsored me already!
Wednesday 25 April 2007
Yang and I had dinner at Kobe Jones following a suggestion from Loreen some time ago and we were really impressed with their sushi...it was a lot more creative than any other Japanese restaurant we have been to so far...their volcano roll (oven baked scallops layered on top of California roll) and their Number One Special (crab salad with avocado wrapped in snapper and nori baked with cream sauce) were absolutely delicious...it's making me crave to go there again just writing about it.
Following dinner, we headed to Ronnie Scotts, the most famous jazz venue in London, to listen to Nigel Kennedy, a classical violinist who was the protege of Yehudi Menuhin and who also studied at the Juilliard School in New York, turn his talents to jazz. Ronnie Scotts had my approval from the moment we stepped in as it has a no smoking policy...yay! The concert was enjoyable but we had to leave before the encore finished as it was midnight and we didn't want to miss the last tube home...the joys of not having a car.
Friday 27 April 2007
After work, we met up with Alli, Aaron, Tammy and Linus for dinner at Busaba. Then we all moved onto the Moose for Happy hour drinks. It was another celebration for Jason's birthday. Unfortunately we couldn't stay very long as Yang and I had to wake up at 4am the following morning to go the airport. Alli and Aaron also followed us back because, as from Thursday, they are the newest tenants to 9 Lowry House, albeit only for 2 weeks.
Saturday 28 April 2007
We had a really early start this morning so that we could make our way to Marseille, the oldest and second largest city in France and the capital of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur région. Our sightseeing started at Vieux Port, the hub of Marseilles with its daily fish market, anchored fishing boats and yachts. From there, we caught a ferry to Chateau D'If, a prison built on the smallest island in the Frioul Archipelago. The island and its prison were the setting for The Count of Monte Cristo, the novel by Alexandre Dumas. Then we went back on to the ferry to cruise around the Frioul Archipelago before we headed back to Vieux Port for lunch, where I had a salmon, tuna and beef tartar...it was really good...you can't beat fresh seafood...
After lunch, we walked up La Canebière, the main street of Marseille and picked up some navettes, boat shaped biscuit created to commemorate the arrival of St Lazarus and the two "Marys", Saint Mary Magdalene and Saint Martha to Provence around 2,000 years ago. We continued on to the Les Reformes Church, a huge church with stained glass windows with the main scenes of the bible and the saints of Provence and then walked along Boulevard Longchamp to the Palais Longchamp, which was built to commemorate the arrival of the water of the canal between the river Durance and Marseille.We headed back to Vieux Port and then walked around the Panier Quarter, the oldest part of the city with small narrow crooked streets. Along the way we picked up some soap from La Compagnie de Provence...their soap is 72% oil so it is much better for your skin, and we saw the following:
- Jardin des Vestiges, an archaeological park with ruins of the 1st-century docks and the 4th-century entrance to the fortified Greek town (Marseille was founded in 600 BC by Greeks)
- Saint Ferrèol les Augustins, which was previously the headquarters of the Knights Templar in the 12th Century
- Hotel de Ville
- La Place Daviel
- La Vielle Charite, a poorhouse where the Town council decided to lock up the poor inhabitants of Marseille in a selected "clean place". It's actually quite nice architecturally notwithstanding its purpose- St Laurent Cathedral
- Fort St Jean
- Cathedrale de la Nouvelle Major, a huge Provencal Romanesque Church that you see as you are approaching the Vieux Port. Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte laid the first stone of the Cathedral. I've shown a picture taken from the sea with Fort St Jean on the right and the Cathedrale on the left as the Cathedral is huge and Yang and my lense couldn't do it justice from up close (time for a camera upgrade?!).We had dinner this evening at La Miramar, renowned as the best restaurant for La Bouillabaisse, a fish based soup served with la rouille (a garlic saffron sauce) and bread similar to crostini (you put the la rouille on top of the bread and then soak the bread in the soup). The restaurant definitely knew how to make money from its reputation...charging €55 per person for the Bouillabaisse and then making it only available for a minimum of 2 people. It was definitely worth a try given it is Marseille's most famous regional culinary dish, but not sure I would pay that much again.
Sunday 29 April 2007
On today's sightseeing itinerary, we saw the:
- Basilique Abbaye de St Victor, built in the 5th century but in really good condition
- Notre Dame de la Garde, a neo Byzantine Church built on the highest point in the city. You can see the Cathedral from the sea, from the Port, from the Panier Quarter...pretty much from anywhere in Marseille because of its dominating position. Picture from the Port and then up close...
- Fort St Nicholas
- Palais du Pharo, which was to be an imperial residence that Prince Napoléon Bonaparte approved for his future Empress Eugenie. However, neither Emperor Napoléon or Empress Eugenie ever resided in the Palace.
- Arc de Triomphe, built to commemorate the victories of the French Revolution and the First Empire, and as a tribute to the glory of the Republic, the Consulate, and the Empire
Our afternoon was spent on a boat under a clear blue sky admiring the Calanques between Marseille and Cassis. Calanques are deep narrow inlets in the white rocky cliffs, mainly formed of limestone. They are often referred to as the Mediterranean fjords. What a relaxing way to spend the afternoon.We had a nice seafood dinner (to continue the tradition) before getting an early night, as we had another early start the next morning to the airport, and then straight to work from London Gatwick Airport. Overall we had a nice trip with great weather. Though some parts of Marseille were dodgy it certainly wasn't the "organised crime capital" of France. The people were nice and the food (in particular the seafood) was good, although we needed to give seafood a miss for a while afterwards!











































